This simple method of spooling braid will improve performance on your casting tackle and help save money.
It’s safe to say that everyone is different and, not surprisingly, fishing does different things for different people.
For me, it’s not so much about catching them (lets be real: anyone can reel in a fish) as it is about improving.
You can always get better!
This is why I travel to entirely new bodies of water, especially bass lakes, to come out of my comfort zone and try new stuff not available to fish at home.
That’s what happened this past week and, while I had a good time, there were a lot of things learned.
How To Increase Braided Line Casting Performance
This time of year Lake Chickamauga is stuffed with caverning grass mats that offer forage and cover to the lake’s resident bucket mouths.
It’s pretty neat, and one of the best ways to catch bass there is by throwing a frog.
For scenarios like this, it’s best to use a 7’6″ medium-heavy or heavy, fast action casting rod, paired with a quick baitcaster and, you guessed it: braided line.
Thick braided line.
We’re talking at least 50lb or higher.
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- Hauling fish out of thick cover is a tough job that calls for tougher tackle.
- Thicker braided line is less likely to pull into itself.
Knowing this, my reels were spooled with fresh 65lb line.
When I spool my reels, all of them get a mono backer.
Yes, monofilament backer goes onto all of them, because no one needs 200 yards of braided line when fishing for specks or reds (or, in this case, bass).
This reduces the amount of braid on each reel, so I am able to get a single spool to fill a few reels instead of one.
But, my main froggin’ combo got a little more backer than usual, and this greatly improved the reel’s casting performance.
In order to explain how, let’s address a problem with braid.
Braid packs poorly onto spools, mostly because it doesn’t stretch.
So instead of being wound tight like mono or fluoro, lengths of it are slightly loose, too slight for an undiscerning eye to detect.
Yes, you can pack it tightly at home, but after a few casts on the water it will become loose again.
And, because it’s so thin (and rarely round-shaped) it can, and will, pull down between those loose strands.
In addition to this, braid doesn’t have a uniform surface like mono or fluoro because it is woven and not extruded.
This creates more friction between layers of line, causing braid to catch itself as the spool turns, often resulting in backlash or a cast “failing to start”.
Halfway through a day of frogging I suddenly noticed that my braid experienced none of the problems mentioned above.
After giving it a little thought, it was apparent the increased performance was due to the extra monofilament backer:
- mono is packed tighter
- braid can’t pull through the backer
- braid peels easily off monofilament
Because you are only using as much as you need, the remainder of braid in your cast is coming off of slippery monofilament, not surface-grabbing braid.
It’s important you measure off the amount of braid you’ll need to make a cast.
So if you know you will be casting 30 yards, then spool on 30 yards of braid after filling the rest of the spool with monofilament.
It’d be good to add a few feet, to prevent your knot from flying off the spool, so make that 31 yards.
I know my longest casts were about 50 yards (I measured them), and that was exactly how much braid was spooled onto the reel.
Do this, and you’ll be re-packing the braid on your spool each time you finish a retrieve.
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You’ll be spending less money on braid, because you’re only using what you need.
You’re welcome. :)
We all know that quality casting equals quality fishing.
So take some time, spool braid onto your baitcasters using this method, and you’ll be making longer casts, more often.
When you do this, the odds are in your favor and you’ll catch that hammer you always wanted.
Tight lines, y’all!